Pinewoods of the Blackmount, a Progress Report

By Peter Wormell

Ledaig Nursery, Benderloch, by Oban, Argyll,

(Formerly of the Nature Conservancy Council, Lorn, Argyll)

Nearly half a century ago Donald McVean paddled a canoe across the waters of two of the island-studded lochs on Rannoch Moor. His mission was to seek out and study the fragments of native woodland which had survived or colonised over the centuries. Four other islands in West Highland lochs further north were also investigated for comparison, (McVean, 1957).

Many foresters and conservationists in those days were pessimistic about restoration or extension of existing relict woodlands, suggesting that the graveyard of bog timber much in evidence in hagged peatland over Rannoch Moor consisted of preserved remnants which had existed there three thousand years ago and, so great had been the deterioration of vegetation and soil conditions, it would be impossible to restore native woodlands within these areas.

On an island in Lochan an H-Achlaise, however, Donald found several dead pines two feet in diameter at breast height, and at least two hundred years old, and one that still retained a few live branches. Numerous younger pines varying from IO to 70 years of age and up to 9 inches in diameter were also present along with 30' tall birches and an abundance of low scrub birch, willow and juniper of both upright and prostrate forms. Rowan saplings were numerous but, even on the islands, they were trimmed by deer as soon as they emerged from the knee-high blaeberry and heather.

Ellean Iubhar (the Yew Island) on Loch Laidon supported birch woodland with an understorey of willow, rowan and abundant bird cherry. The latter was in full flower at the time of his visit attracting many bees and other insects. Sadly, he found no yews and there were no traces of Scots pine, not even stumps. Another island nearby was covered with 5' tall juniper scrub, yet juniper had disappeared from the moors surrounding both of these lochs.

Clearly the islands had afforded some measure of protection against fires and against persistent browsing though deer visited them from time to time concentrating their efforts on rowan. The vegetation Donald found resembled primeval forest. Some Nature Conservancy staff of the day considered that similar vegetation communities could, perhaps, be restored in the relict woodlands of Crannach and Doire Darrach and, perhaps, on glacial moraines on the moor itself.

At about the same time as these vegetation studies took place, Major Phillip Fleming, the Laird of Blackmount, agreed to the erection of two small deer fence enclosures at Crannach pinewood with the hope of getting some natural regeneration which might pave the way for more ambitious schemes. Fencing material was delivered to the sites on the West Highland railway line which passes through the wood and two very small enclosures were built. For ten years these experiments failed to produce any results as sparks from the steam locomotives caused fires every year which swept through the enclosures. In 1968 steam gave way to diesel and seedlings appeared. By 1973 dense natural regeneration of Scots pine, birch and rowan had formed thickets 2-3 feet high.

This had not been the first attempt at replenishing native woodland on the Blackmount. Major Fleming had achieved some success in producing small groups of Scots pine saplings from natural regeneration in Doire Darrach wood, on the shores of Loch Tulla, within a series of small enclosures, some dating back to the late 1930's.

It was clear, however, that regeneration was feasible. In 1979, after seeking advice from the Nature Conservancy Council, Scottish Woodlands, on behalf of Blackmount Estate, set out on an ambitious and progressive woodland replenishment program which included deer fenced natural regeneration enclosures at five year intervals within the native woodland remnants of Doire Darrach and Crannach. Plantations, aimed at extending the gene pool of the indigenous pines along with its associated broadleaves, also seemed appropriate.

Following the successful establishment of plantations on open, degraded moorland adjacent to Doire Darrach wood and a few years later to the west of Crannach wood, the scheme was extended to include a 100 hectare enclosure on Leachan an Dothaidh to the north of Bridge of Orchy, above the West Highland railway line. This was completed in the late 1980's. Then, in the early 1990's, three more areas were fenced; one to south of Loch Dochard to include a small fragment of native woodland for natural regeneration purposes as well as approximately 50 hectares of moorland to the west of this for planting. Plantations were also established over another 100 hectares (approx.) on Beinn Glas, just southeast of Lochan na H-Achailse of the southwest corner of the great moor itself A 50 hectare portion of the catchment of the Oran burn which runs into Loch Tulla was also included.

In 1993 Coileiter wood in Lower Glen Etive composed mostly of birch with alder, a few scattered oaks on the lower ground and ancient pines higher up the slopes of Beinn Chaorach was brought into the program by ring fencing for natural regeneration. Back in the Loch Tulla catchment another natural regeneration enclosure was, later, erected among the scattering of ancient pines in Glen Fuar.

In 1998 a progress report, together with vegetation maps, for the natural re generation enclosures at Crannach and Doire Darach were brought together with the help of Bob Black and Jamie McIntyre. Plans were also outlined for Glen Fuar, with recommendations for future enclosures for a similar progressive regeneration programme.

Surveys resumed in 1999 when Bob Black and I produced vegetation maps, using the National Vegetation Classification of plant communities (NVC) of four more dispersed areas with planting -potential, collectively covering approximately 300 ha. Three of these are now being considered for the next phase of planting, thus carrying the program on into the 21st century.

The Blackmount woodland program is not just a flash in the pan, one-off planting for the millenium. It is a sustained effort at native woodland regeneration and extension, now in its 21st year. It is the result of a team effort with Stuart Johnston, of Scottish Woodlands, working with three small local nurseries in close collaboration with the enthusiastic Blackmount estate staff with total support from Robin Fleming and the full backing of SNH and the Forestry Authority from the start.

Maps of NVC vegetation communities have been produced for all planting proposals since 1990 prior to planting. All the pine planting stock is of Blackmount origin and group plantings of birch, alder, rowan and appropriate willows, all of north Argyll origin, have been established on suitable vegetation communities. Juniper has also been included. Deep peatland and plant communities containing assemblages of special interest have been excluded from planting. In some proposals 50% of the proposed scheme is recommended for retention as open ground.

In the case of one large proposal on the slopes of Beinn Achalader, extensive areas support herb rich montane grassland over fertile mineral soils derived from the Moine Schist exposures higher up the hill. Most of this is to be left unplanted. Bob Black and I did have a discussion on the suitability of planting some bird cherries in colluvial soils along streamsides and gullies in this proposal. We decided not to include this in our recommendations. It is not normally considered appropriate for what is primarily a pinewood scheme, yet hazel occurs high up on the streams on Crannach pinewood and, if bird cherry can thrive and produce the thickets which Donald found on Eilean Iubhar in Loch Laidon, perhaps we should think again.

The pinewoods of Blackmount have a bright new future but let us not rest on our laurels. We are not the only ones who have striven to restore these majestic woods in the parish of Glen Orchy and Innishail. In the early part of the seventeenth century the Campbell lairds of Glen Orchy, Earls of Breadalbane, maintained a great sense of responsibility for the woodlands in their lands. In 1613 Sir Duncan Campbell of Glen Orchy insisted that each cotter should grow in his kale yard young trees for planting in Glen Orchy and elsewhere in the district. These included pine, oak, ash and plane (sycamore). Even birch is recorded as being planted in the laird's regeneration program. Sir Duncan's son, Colin Campbell, continued this practice and supplied pine seeds to several Scottish estates thirty years later. (Anon, 1855).

The Campbell lairds of Glen Orchy who held the pine in such high esteem and who strove to save and extend their forests 300 years ago would, surely, have given their blessing to the regeneration program of the 20th century.

May the noble Scots pines, along with Juniper, aspen, birch, alder, rowan and perhaps even bird cherry, continue to gain a root hold on the hillsides and morainic knolls among the vast peatlands of the Blackmount throughout the 21st century.

References

Anon 1855, The Black Book of Taymouth. Breadalbane Charter Room, Edinburgh.

McVean D.N. (1957), Island Vegetation of some West Highland Fresh-water Lochs. Trans. Bot. Soc. Edinburgh, 37 part 3.